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Fender Serial Number Lookup Guide - Dating a Vintage Fender

If you’re trying to date a Fender by serial number, you’re not alone — and you’re also not wrong to be confused.

This page explains how Fender serial numbers actually work, and where to find them depending on the era.

How Fender serial numbers work

Before the internet, I used to constantly travel around with a crate full of guitar identification books in my trunk, and I tried to remember as much as I could about vintage Fender guitars. Now you can just refer to this easy to read page!

Fender has used multiple serial number systems, often changing formats during major production shifts. In many vintage eras, the serial number provides a production range, not a specific build date.

A few important realities to understand upfront:

  • Fender serial numbers were often applied out of sequence
  • Necks and bodies were frequently made and assembled at different times.
  • Neck plates were stored in bins and were definitely NOT doled out in sequential order!
  • The same serial format can span multiple years
  • Neck dates and component codes are often more accurate than the serial number itself

Bottom line: On many vintage Fenders, the serial number points you in the right direction — but the guitar confirms the answer.

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Overview: Fender Serial Number Location By Era

1950-1954: Serial number on bridge plate

1954: A rare handful of the first Stratocasters have their serial number on the plastic tremolo cover plate instead of the metal neck plate

1955: P Basses continue with serial numbers on bridge plates

1954-Mid 1976: Serial number on neck plate

Mid 1976-2000s: Serial number on the front of the headstock

1982-Present: Bridge Plate - American Vintage Telecaster Reissues and other Reissue releases

1990s-Present: Back of headstock - US and Made in Mexico instruments

1990s-Present: Neck Heel - Made or Crafted in Japan models

NEXT STEP:

Now that you know where to look, here's the detail you need to find the general era in which your guitar was made.

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Fender Serial Numbers, 1950 to 1954

1950-1952: 0001-0999, Esquire, Broadcaster, "Nocaster", Telecaster

1951-1952: 100-400, P Bass

1952-1954: 1000-5300, Telecaster

1952-1954: 0001-0999, P Bass

1954: Low 0000s to low 0200s, A rare handful of the first Stratocasters have their serial number on the plastic tremolo cover plate instead of the metal neck plate

1953-1955: 1000-2000, P Bass

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Pre-CBS Fender Serial Numbers, 1954 to 1963

Guitars and basses from this period will have 4 to 6 digit serial numbers embossed into their neck plates.

There are no other letters or markings on the neck plate, except for the rare "-" or "0" prefix, as noted.

This scheme is seen on the Telecaster, Stratocaster, Jazzmaster, Jaguar, Jazz Bass, Precision bass, Duosonic, Musicmaster, etc. from 1954 and later.

There is a lot of overlap - some numbers below may show up in the year before or after the years they are listed.

1954: 0001 to 8000
1955: 6000 to 10000
1956: 9000 to 16000
1957: 16000 to 25000 (some numbers with a "0" or "-" prefix)
1958: 25000 to 30000 (some numbers with a "0" or "-" prefix)
1959: 30000 to 40000
1960: 40000 to 58000
1961: 55000 to 72000
1962: 72000 to 93000
1963: 93000 to 99999

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Pre-CBS and Transition Period "L Plate" Fender Serial Numbers, 1963 to 1965

Guitars and basses from this period will have serial numbers that begin with "L", followed by 5 digit serial numbers embossed into their neck plates.

There are no other letters or markings on the neck plate.

This scheme is seen on the Telecaster, Stratocaster, Jazzmaster, Jaguar, Jazz Bass, Precision bass, Duosonic, Musicmaster, etc. from 1963 ato 1965.

There is a lot of overlap - some numbers below may show up in the year before or after the years they are listed.

1963: L00001 to L20000
1964: L20000 to L55000
1965: L55000 to L99999

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CBS Era "F Plate" Fender Serial Numbers, 1965-1976

Guitars and basses from this period will have a neck plate with a big, embossed "F" logo. Six-digit serial numbers are embossed above the "F".

There are no other letters or markings on the neck plate.

This scheme is seen on the Telecaster, Stratocaster, Jazzmaster, Jaguar, Jazz Bass, Precision bass, Duosonic, Musicmaster, etc. from 1965 to 1976.

As always, there is a lot of overlap - some numbers below may show up in the year before or after the years they are listed.

Late 1965: 100000 to 110000
1966: 110000 to 200000
1967: 180000 to 210000
1968: 210000 to 250000
1969: 250000 to 280000
1970: 280000 to 300000
1971: 300000 to 330000
1972: 330000 to 370000
1973: 370000 to 520000
1974: 500000 to 580000
1975: 580000 to 690000
1976: 690000 to 750000

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Fender Headstock Serial Numbers, 1976 to 2005

Guitars and basses from this period have serial numbers displayed on their headstocks on a decal.

This scheme is seen on the Telecaster, Stratocaster, Jazzmaster, Jaguar, Jazz Bass, Precision bass, etc. from 1976 to 2005.

The following numbers could be off by as much as two years.

Generally speaking, a serial number with an "S" prefix is from the 1970's. An "E" prefix is from the 1980's. An "N" prefix is from the 1990's. "E" and "N" prefix models are sometimes also Japanese-made instruments.

In March 1985, CBS sold Fender to a group of private investors.The serial numbers do not reflect this change - Fender continued to make instruments using existing serial number schemes. The new Fender did not acquire any physical assets of the old company, just the name "Fender". Hence during 1985 to 1987, production of Fender guitars was only done in Japan, while USA Fender created a new factory in California. The Japanese-made Fenders do have some slight serial number differences (typically a "J" serial number prefix).

1976-1977: 7600000 ("76" in bold)
1979-1981: 800000s
1976-1981: 1000000 to 8000000 (7 digits)
1979-1982: S1 to S5 + 5 Digits
1976: S6 + 5 digits
1977-1978: S7 + 5 digits
1977-1978: S8 + 5 digits
1978-1981: S9 + 5 digits
1979-1981: E0 + 5 digits
1980-1981: E1 + 5 digits
1982: E1 + 5 digits
1982-1983: E2 + 5 digits
1982-1984: E3 + 5 digits
1984-1985, 1987-1988: E4 + 5 digits
1988-1989: E8 + 5 digits
1988-1990: E9 + 5 digits
1990: N9 + 5 digits
1990-1991: N0 + 5 digits
1991-1992: N1 + 5 or 6 digits
1992-1993: N2 + 5 or 6 digits
1993-1994: N3 + 5 or 6 digits
1994-1995: N4 + 5 or 6 digits
1995-1996: N5 + 5 or 6 digits
1996-1997: N6 + 5 or 6 digits
1997-1998: N7 + 5 or 6 digits
1998-1999: N8 + 5 or 6 digits
1999-2000: N9 + 5 or 6 digits
2000: DZ0 or Z0 + 5/6 digits
2001: DZ1 or Z1 + 5/6 digits
2002: DZ2 or Z2 + 5/6 digits
2003: DZ3 or Z3 + 5/6 digits
2004: DZ4 or Z4 + 5/6 digits
2005: DZ5 or Z5 + 5/6 digits


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Fender Japan Serial Numbers, 1984-1996

Guitars and basses from this period have serial numbers displayed on their headstocks or neck heel, on a decal.

Serial numbers starting with S, E, or N are also present on US made guitars, as noted above. Fender Japan guitars are labeled "Made in Japan" or "Crafted in Japan" in different fonts, varying year to year.

1982 to 1984: JV + 5 Digits
1983 to 1984: SQ + 5 Digits
1984 to 1987: E + 6 Digits
1985 to 1986: A + 6 Digits
1985 to 1986: B + 6 Digits
1985 to 1986: C + 6 Digits
1986 to 1987: F + 6 Digits
1987 to 1988: G + 6 Digits
1988 to 1989: H + 6 Digits
1989 to 1990: I + 6 Digits
1989 to 1990: J + 6 Digits
1990 to 1991: K + 6 Digits
1991 to 1992: L + 6 Digits
1992 to 1993: M + 6 Digits
1993 to 1994: N + 6 Digits
1994 to 1995: O + 6 Digits
1995 to 1996: P + 6 Digits

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Avoiding Common Gibson Dating Mistakes

Step-by-step To-Do List

  • Don't assume that the serial number nails the date down to one specific year!
  • Find and record the serial number + take a clear photo
  • Use the list above to narrow your search
  • Compare era features (logo, tuners, bridge,, pickups) (we'll share this in another section)
  • Check your neck date
  • Check the potentiometer codes
  • Check for pickup date codes

Contact us for help when:

  • Trying to nail the year of high-value models like 1950s and 1960s Telecasters, Broadcasters, Esquires, Jazzmasters, Jazz Basses, Precision Basses, and Jaguars
  • When you have estate or insurance documentation needs
  • When you find suspected replaced parts, a refinish, or if you feel like you're found something that feels “too good to be true”